Accolades / Brunello di Montalcino

“A wall of sound”: Top Italian taster Emanuele Giannone on Barbi’s 2006 Brunello Riserva

Emanuele Giannone is widely considered to be one of the top tasters working in Italy today. Beyond his prolific production of tasting notes and wine writing, he also teaches aesthetics of wine at the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Piedmont. Here’s what he had to say about the 2006 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, which he included this week in a round-up of the best wines he’s tasted this year.

A big, mouth-watering wine, just the right amount of angular (it claws and nibbles well), well-bodied and cohesive fruit, compact, choral, and Beatlesque. No, scratch that: It’s Spectoresque. A wall of wine like a wall of sound. Now, don’t ask me about the succession of multi-colored fruits or overachieving erudite tasting notes… I’m writing from memory and I can remember the flavor and lingering character of this wine like it was yesterday. And I also remember the short time it spent in the bottle.

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