For any winemaker, it’s always a highly moving and rewarding experience to read notes on her/his wines by someone who “really gets it,” like Michael Godel, one of Canada’s leading authorities on Italian wine. Michael just got around to publishing his notes from the touring Benvenuto Brunello tasting last month. His superb post, Diversity in Brunello di Montalcino, is worth reading in its entirety. But in the meantime here’s a snippet that he devoted to Fattoria dei Barbi’s 2013 Brunello di Montalcino (image via Michael’s blog).
If there is another estate in Montalcino with more ode in pocket to tradition and history while always moving and thinking forward then I’d like to meet it. Barbi’s ’13 takes an express leap ahead, away from where it came but with notes and stories that recall its past. This fruit is serious, wise, salumi-frutta di bosco [wild berries] meets fragola [strawberry] based, chewy, ropey and exact. The tannins are drying over round and bounding acidity while the age potential never wavers. It’s a baby, like so many, but in a Brunello as here, as always, there is no speculation, only certainty.