Fattoria dei Barbi 2012 Brunello di Montalcino
The Fattoria dei Barbi 2012 Brunello di Montalcino offers a clear and bright quality of fruit. This wine really hits the high notes better than most others in its class. Stefano Cinelli Colombini and his team have done a fine job with this Brunello annata. Beyond the dark cherry and cassis are elegant tones of dried herb, tar and rose petal. The bouquet reaches harmony and finesse. In fact, you’d hardly know just how warm this summer growing season was because the fruit appears not to have suffered one bit. The tannins are delicate and silky.
Fattoria dei Barbi is the comeback kid of the year. The wines presented are showing exceptionally well, even this soon after release. This estate has done a great job mitigating any adverse effects of the hot growing season. The fruit is ripe without tasting jammy and the wine offers significant richness and power. Thanks to its centuries (yes, the history of the estate spans back two centuries) of experience, Fattoria dei Barbi is not put off by vintage hardship. In fact, they chose the 2014 vintage (characterized by chilly and wet weather that made fruit ripening difficult) to inaugurate a new Sangiovese-based wine made without any additives. The experiment represents the estate’s first “natural wine.” Recently, they leased more vineyard land to increase production. These include six hectares in Montalcino and 12 in the Scansano area of the Tuscan Coast.